The Good News Magazine

Green Shore: Alternative Livestock on the Eastern Shore

Maryland's Eastern Shore is known for poultry production, a massive industry which, according to the Delmarva Poultry Industry, accounted for 40% of the state's cash farm income in 2008. Sales from dairy and beef cattle also make up a reasonable percentage of cash receipts for the state. Farmers in the region who opt to raise less common types of animals do so, in part, because it distinguishes them from the herd, while also offering environmentally friendly alternatives to traditional livestock.

Alpacas enjoy life on Marianne Jackson and Ben Ander’s Sugar Magnolia Farm in Queen Anne.

Marianne Jackson lives with her husband Ben Anders and their two sons on Sugar Magnolia Farm, a five-acre parcel purchased from her family's farm in Queen Anne. When selecting what sort of livestock they would raise, they had some specific parameters. "Before moving here, Ben had never owned livestock," says Marianne, “while I grew up with pets that ended up on the dinner table. So, we knew we wanted to raise animals, but we didn't want to have to kill or race them in order for them to be profitable." After careful research, they chose alpacas.

Alpacas are native to South America where they have been domesticated since the 2nd century and endured near extinction at the hands of Europeans. Classified as camelids, they are cousins of both the llama and the camel, though considerably smaller. Alpacas have a myriad of environmental benefits. Their padded feet are not as damaging to pastures as those of their hoofed counterparts. Efficient eaters, the animals consume only about 2% of their body weight in orchard grasses each day. And, at the end of the process, the efficiency continues. Alpacas are what Marianne calls "communal dung pilers," meaning they all tend to go, together, in the same location. Unlike that of more common livestock, alpaca manure can be spread on vegetable crops immediately, without risk of damage from excess nitrogen. Marianne thinks of alpaca waste as time-released fertilizer capsules, and she encourages gardeners to haul some away from her farm for free (sugarmagnoliacafe@gmail.com).

Ameripaca’s Ricochet, otherwise known on Sugar Magnolia Farm as Ricky, “eyes” up a cameraman.

Yet, all of these positive qualities merely add benefit to the animals, which are prized the world over for their fleece. Described by Marianne as "one of the most durable of all fibers, warmer than wool and as soft as cashmere," alpaca fiber is also hypoallergenic because it lacks the lanolin found in sheep's wool. Marianne's animals are shorn annually, a dirty, fluffy, daylong process. Afterward, the fleece is sent to upstate New York where it is cleaned with water and mild soap, dried, and processed. But the fleece is not dyed. In the United States, the unadulterated colors, ranging from white, to fawn, to brown, to black, are considered desirable. The finished fiber is returned to Marianne who then markets it locally. Her yarns sell in hanks of 200 yards, enough for a simple scarf, for $16 to $28.

As part of her ongoing educational efforts, Marianne gives tours of the farm and she brings her alpacas, which she says climb into her minivan quite willingly, to schools for demonstrations. Marianne takes pride in the fact that she is producing and selling a local product and feels the venture has been a success.

She elaborates, "It suits our purpose, and it more than pays for itself. With most of the alpaca yarn sold in this country coming all the way from South America, I'm pleased to be able to create a quality product from my own farm." Marianne will have her alpaca products for sale at Outlaw Days at Tuckahoe Equestrian Center on September 11 and 12. She also sells the yarns at her own Sugar Magnolia Cafe, a local lunch spot on Commerce Street in downtown Centerville.

Like alpacas, bison have had a long and often turbulent history, this time on native soil. The National Bison Association explains that, conservatively, there were 30 million bison (sometimes referred to as American buffalo) before the arrival of Europeans to North America. "Unregulated killing of bison led to the many millions of animals being reduced to no more than 1,500 individuals in the mid to late 1800s." Today, there are fewer than 300,000, the majority of which are being raised on private ranches. Bill Edwards owns one such ranch. In 1995, Bill worked for a telephone company and grew grain on his 104 acres in Hurlock, but his bottom line was sagging. Lacking the means to expand his grain operation, he began exploring different options and went to visit a bison ranch in Pennsylvania.

Bill Edwards describes bison as “awe-inspiring.” His bison farm is located in Hurlock where sells bison meat at area farmers’ markets, including Easton and Cambridge.

He remembers, "As soon as I saw those animals, there was no turning back. They were awe-inspiring." SB Farms soon became home to a herd of grass-fed bison. Bill had to cultivate a careful balance of grasses in his fields, and he invested time and money in both the bison stock and the fences needed to keep the incredibly strong creatures contained. Now, however, Bill says he spends less time as a bison rancher than he did growing grain. Bison meat, which is lower in fat, cholesterol, and calories than any other red meat, is growing in popularity across the nation so Bill feels he made a wise choice. He has also developed an appreciation for the greater good of his endeavors. He remarks, "These animals were such an important part of our heritage. My goal, now, is to do my part to keep my piece of this planet at least as green as it was when we found it." His products are available from the ranch on Hynson Road, as well as from the Cambridge and Easton Farmers' markets.

Charlene and Carmen Dilworth are market farmers in Greensboro who raise another native animal species, the Bobwhite Quail, or Northern Bobwhite. The Dilworths began farming 36 acres at Sand Hill Farm in 1977, raising traditional vegetables for the wholesale market. Fourteen years later, friends convinced them to sell at a farmers' market, a move that sparked lasting change for the Dilworths. Charlene now sells their products from a stand at the farm on Route 313, as well as at three different farmers' markets, including FRESHFARM Market in St. Michaels.

The Dilworths realize variety is a key to market success so when their son Ben suggested raising quail for eggs they were pleased. "We started with 25 birds," recollects Charlene, "in a little pen under the kitchen window. We enjoyed watching them, especially when they huddled up to sleep at night." Charlene explains how quail remind her of the American Pioneers, circling their covered wagons. Quails roost in a circle, heads pointed outward, a behavior that helps them conserve body heat while still allowing them to keep watch for predators. Today, the Dilworths have tripled their flock size and moved them to a larger, more secure pen.

The birds lay about 25 dozen eggs each week, many of which are sold to chefs in Washington, D.C. Their native birds lay white eggs, which are about the size of a large olive. Compared to chicken eggs, quails’ have a larger yolk to white ratio, but the taste is similar. Quail eggs, considered a delicacy in some countries, are used in certain types of sushi. They can also be baked into specialty dishes, or served hard boiled, poached, pickled, fried, even deviled - assuming you've got the patience.

Farmers like these who choose to raise uncommon breeds of livestock have their work cut out for them. Marketing their products requires persistence and a willingness to assume some risk. Eastern Shore customers have begun to appreciate the value of purchasing locally raised fruits and vegetables, but convincing folks to try products from unfamiliar animals requires careful education. How fortunate we are to have the opportunity to try something new and to learn from these farmers, understanding that they have done the research ahead of us and have products of personal and environmental value to offer.